Exploring in the footsteps of Odulphus

Land broken by water
No wonder this stretch of the Sint Odulphuspad has been christened Lux Aeterna, or eternal light. The occasional magical light creates a sparkle on the lake that was created about 120,000 years ago, during the penultimate ice age. It is a paradise spot, here at the break. You will find that name more often on the road. In fact, breaches are pools created by dike breaches or peat work and the water sportsman or swimmer is now reaping the benefits of this. Literally it means broken land and that is a lyrical description of the many small and larger lakes that you often see in the Frisian low moor area.

Also striking along the way are the many transformer houses built with care and under architecture in the landscape. Where there was a risk of flooding or high water, many of those stone structures were placed at height, on dikes around the 1930s. High voltage is converted to low voltage and supplied to households and companies. Some look monumental in all their simplicity: if you pay attention you will encounter the most beautiful designs in the Frisian country.

'Ons' Oudega is a charming center over which a blanket of tranquility has settled out of season. The campsite is deserted, the marina empty. The stage that leads via Workum to Hindeloopen (17 km) starts at the foot of the Ankerkerk (better said Ankertsjerke) in Oudega, with its tower clock from 1623 hidden behind the green striped suit. A picture that logically conquered a place on the monument list.

Another monument - just outside the walking route - is Doris Mooltsjeand well worth the detour. This oldest spider mill in Friesland is also one of the largest of its kind. A beauty in operation, a large windmill that drains the small polders around the Aldegeaster Brekken. The tjasker from 1790 is lovingly named after one of its last millers, Doris Hoekstra.

Workum and Hindeloopen
Further along the Lux Aeterna route, Frisian Eleven Towns display their treasures. Workum with its earthenware utensils and the Waag, an eye-catcher on the central, lively square where butter and cheese used to be traded. Now it is one large terrace on sunny days. Around the corner awaits the rich legacy of painter Jopie Huisman and a variety of centuries-old facades along the street, which give the admirer a stiff neck.

Hindeloopen can quite compete with it, with its world-famous painting that you see everywhere - from nameplates to clogs -, the maze of alleys and bridges, the commander's houses and likhúsjes (small houses) next to it. Have a slice of fish and some more musing on the IJsselmeer.

And speaking of cowards; in Blauwhuis, one of the few Catholic enclaves in Fryslân, people still like to greet each other with a heartfelt Alaaf! Because carnival is celebrated here every year; then Blauwhuis is called Fyfkesryk and shakes the drinking room and conference center to its foundations. "For three days in March," beams owner Gerard de Wolff, pointing to the photo gallery of Prinsen on the wall, above the billiard table that rests under a long pile carpet out of service.

Unfortunately, the nobleman's house disappeared from view, but nowadays you can enjoy a stroll in the Van Coehoorn forest at this place. In the Vaste Burchtkerk - with its impressive tower - you can still find the mausoleum of the man who left his mark on many fortified cities. Sloten is one of them. Smallest of the Frisian Eleven Cities, but a gem. No wonder this route has been christened Moenia Perlae (city walls of the pearl).

You will notice that the old fortress has been well preserved during a walk around the original wall. Start by exploring in the old town hall of Sloten, which, in addition to the tourist information office, also houses Museum Stedhûs Sleat. The regtkamer on the first floor is the showpiece of this beautiful house. Don't forget the magic lanterns in the attic; the unique collection of former resident Peter Bonnet appeals to the imagination of young and old. The magic lantern - predecessor of the slide projector - lavishly sprinkles magic in that little Sloten. But we were already enchanted.